Baker and owner Frank Sally composes classic breads and expert pastries while we are still abed, dreaming of his sweet/savory croissants. The flaky, beguiling, seemingly sun-kissed results do not disappoint. The very best thing about Fournée's goodies is one never feels any sugar regrets: éclairs are only just sweet enough and morning buns are delicate handfuls made with Ceylon cinnamon. Gracious ladies provide canelés baked in French copper molds. Pretty, petite cakes and tarts beckon, while sturdy levain, baguettes and German rye promise to support at-home nourishing meals. Beware: The desire to sample every baked good can be eclipsed by the must-have everyday favorite. Lunch choices include quiches, pizza and baguette sandwiches. Organic coffee and bottled drinks are offered. If the few outside seats are occupied, an adjoining courtyard welcomes all.
