Manolo Blahnik bosses George Malkemus and Anthony Yurgaitis transformed 350 acres across the way from their Litchfield residence into Connecticut's most fashionable farm. Now, Arethusa's pampered, prize-winning cows (yes, their tails are conditioned daily with Pantene Pro-V) are powering a new enterprise: the state's chicest farm-to-table restaurant, where the atmosphere is country hip and the service is big-city impeccable. Chef Dan Magill has butter, milk, yogurt and cheeses fresh from the dairy at his command, and that drives him to source equally first-rate meats, fish and produce including many ingredients cultivated locally in rural Northwest Connecticut. The quartet of Arethusa Farm deviled eggs showcases his creativity from the start: each is different. Ask for an appetizer-size plate of foraged mushroom and farmers cheese ravioli, too, before digging into entrées like tender pan-seared day boat scallops --- with bacon, cauliflower, broccoli, currants and pine nuts --- poached in Madeira wine. If you like duck, opt for the roasted Pekin breast seared crisp with orange blossom honey. A solid list of bottles competes with the selection of wines --- even Champagne --- delivered by the glass via a sophisticated system. Signature cocktails are on the menu as well, but the most memorable drink is the shot of Arethusa Farm milk served with a complimentary cookie. Don't allow that to suffice for dessert. Not with farm-made ice cream offered on the menu or --- even better --- at the Arethusa Dairy Store inside the old firehouse next door.
